I understand that this is a relatively old post, but we've used BlueDevil in an attempt to fix a fairly minor head gasket leak (same make/model/year car) and it worked for about a month. "open Rad Drain Valve and butt your blowgun into the orifice and do a shake rattle and roll to wake up all the dead sediment at the bottom so that it joins the exodus as well." The next day, you may see the reservoir a bit low or a bit high. Then close the bleeder, and adjust the tank level. Start the engine and let the rest of the air come out. Just let it run out as it will continue to release air bubbles. You will see antifreeze coming out of the bleeder. Then top off with water until the reservoir is full to the full cold position. Close everything but the bleeder again, and begin first with the antifreeze. It will take about 6 quarts, plus equal water. I buy mine from the dealer, but you can also use Zyrtec HOAT if you can find it. When you refill it with the antifreeze, be sure you use the right kind. Keep doing it until the drainage is clear. Then shut her down and repeat the drain process. When no more air comes out of the bleeder, close it and start the engine with the heater on full hot. Then close everything except the bleeder and using your funnel, fill the system with water until it comes out the bleed. Drain the system by opening the drain plug, opening the bleeder on top of the engine, and opening the reservoir pressure cap. It IS a PITA to reach, but it can be done. If you reach up there, and bend the horn bracket back, you can get at the radiator drain plug. Jack the front end up and if you look at the bumper cover on the passenger side, you'll see a square hole a little bigger than your hand. Cut the center out of the radiator cap, put a washer above and below, stick the funnel through the hole, then hot glue the whole thing together. I made one by taking a large funnel, several washers, and an old radiator cap. This is why so many people have cooling problems with this engine. This funnel raises the fill level above the engine. This is VERY important, because if you don't fill it under pressure, you will never get all of the air bled out of the system. complicated try this.įirst, you will need to buy or make a fill funnel. Next PostĬbringwarrior mentions the exhaustive procedure, but it you want something a little less. and now you will be reverse flushing the Engine block from the bottom to top and out through the top rad hose and back through the Radiator and out the Lower Rad connection which will be open.į.Go have a beer or play on the Internet for a Half hour (unless your on a wter meter) and after a good lenth of time return for step 2. and block the open end of lower Rad hose with a pipe fitting and end screw in plug.Į.Then improvise a way to attach a Garden hose to the smaller spigot on the thermostat housing (the one that had the smaller hose attached ). I know you didnt wanna hear this but its worth it.ĭ.Attach lower Rad hose to thermostat housing only. Remove Pressure Cap and open Rad Drain Valve and drain entire system.Ĭ.Remove Lower Rad Hose and remove thermostat housing and thermostat and then re install thermostat housing only. and Heater Core completely separately.Ī.So that you avoid using Foul Language.Remove entire front plastic bumper so you get access to the Rad Drain Plug and drain the system.Although Bigotter did not access the drain valve taking the hose off instead is fine but I will get to why I prefer to access the drain plug laterī.Open the the Bleeder Valve on the top plastic coolant outlet. In a nutshell the only way IMO is to flush the Radiatior. OK.SORRY Im late for work this morning (over 10 hours). Ill be of more help in about 10 hours from the time of this post. There is no easy way if you wanna do a good thorough job without removing the thermostat.Then you can cold flush it and run tons of water through the block and heater core in short order.
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